Friday, November 6, 2015

The Dress: Underpinnings and Accessories

The gown is worn with a single petticoat in soft cotton muslin.  I made it as a mockup for the skirt to try out the underskirt pattern from the same 1901 Janet Arnold gown, but it didn’t have the right shape and sweep.  I added a shaped waistband, and layers of ruffles made on my vintage pinking machine, which was about the easiest thing to do ever. 


The corset is made from white satin coutil and boned in white steel.  I was lucky enough to find steel by the giant roll at Richard the Thread, and a belt sander in my then-fiance's metalshop, which means I get to cut, sand, and paint my own bones!  I use nail polish as per the Dreamstress’ experience, and the sander gets the tips perfectly rounded and smooth.  Someday I may splurge for some plastidip, but this is what worked now!  I used the Truly Victorian Edwardian corset pattern, but added a giant back hip gore a la this one from Corsets and Crinolines; it was much improved!
1901 Corset, Nora Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines









The combination is from the same pattern, but I took the shaped flounce and enlarged it x3 lengthwise and pinked it to make a ruffly shaped flounce.  I recommend it!  I used Dharma’s wonderful cotton lawn; perfectly soft and drapey; stiffness is not what’s wanted here.  To save time, I made the waistband out of a wide silk ribbon and shoulder ties of the same, there is a drawstring in front, the waist closes with a skirt hook and the bodice with a few snaps.  
I wore a small bumpad over the corset and hip pads under.

MMMruffly drawers




Bumpad!

Accessories 
To complete the look, I ordered satin Highburys from American Duchess.  They were meant for a different period, but I thought they would make the perfect slippers for an outdoor wedding.  I dyed them to match, dyed ribbons to match, and glued Swarovski flatback crystals and pearls to my hearts delight.  I found the tiara at a local fabric store, and it was the perfect Edwardian tiara silhouette nesting in my poofy hair.  I kept jewelry simple, mostly because I didn’t have time to make anything crazy elaborate, and went with vintage blue rhinestone earrings and a wrapped pearl bracelet; both came from my mother.  Vintage stockings were held up over the combination by a vintage garter belt that I just slipped on over the corset; someday it will get its own garters!








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