The Wedding Suit, Construction and Completion

Construction

The waistcoat was made first, being small and attainable.  While I love the finished look of a shawl collar, I decided to go with a laid-on collar because it reduced bulk in the back and allowed for a nice inner curve to the lapels, which I coveted.  The construction for this was fairly simple, and when he wore it out into the afternoon sunlight the big cut-glass beads along the lapels shot shafts of colored light.

Waistcoat lapels at edges, beaded before cutting.

I tailored the coat next, padstitching it to hair canvas,The Victorian Tailor by Jason Mclachlann.  Go there if you want to feel small and insignificant under the weight of the lifetime of mastery it takes to really be a tailor.  For example, the essential art of shaping the suit with an iron “is not included in the scope of this book”, but most other things are.

a technique I learned through the glorious Gertie’s Blog for Better Sewing.  If you want to know how to tailor, go there.  I also had lotsa help from

I sewed the back and shoulder seams by hand, because I did not have a zipper foot that could get close enough to the beadwork for a smooth seam.  The tendrils curling onto the front don’t meet at the shoulder seams, and that was unfortunate, but better luck next time!  It’s not like it was easy!

The jacket was fully bag-lined with two inside welt pockets and lots glass buttons.  I made keyhole buttonholes on my friend’s Janome. 

I practiced my padstitching on the Suit's predecessor

Look at the hand on that gab!

Apparently I only took pictures of the sleeves while constructing.

On the right you can see the back panels painstakingly handstitched together.

The trousers were probably the most complicated!  I started with the laughing moon California pants pattern, and changed it to reflect the grown-on waistband that gets all cool and high in the back.  It was to be held up with suspenders for a smooth line over the abdomen.  I followed the trousers instructions in The Victorian Tailor for making up.  After cutting the facings, interfacing, suspender button stays, pocket stays, waist stays, hip stays, curtains, pockets, etc.  I must have had 30 pieces all told of three different fabrics.  I did a lot of hand basting, and finished the pockets as per the recommendations.  I had cut them slightly too short so I added a shaped facing for the hem rather than turning it up.  The nine button fly features nine hand sewn buttonholes because the trousers were constructed over a brutal heatwave leaving my sewing room too hot to work in and me naked in the living room trying not to sweat on the gabardine.

We completed the outfit with silk trouser socks from REI, an antique brooch in the figure of Hanuman, a vintage Italian tuxedo shirt with a pique front, vintage studs and cuff links that I had bought him years ago, and the most gorgeous shoes I have ever seen.  They were ordered from Pakistan, and embroidered with gold thread and tiny metal coils, which is apparently what bullion is!  It was like if Aladdin was Cinderella.  We kept them secret until the very day.

Shoes and wedding china!

All together now!