tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59720023040534853442024-02-19T04:53:24.148-08:00Clothing Opus (and other stories)Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-2284674553612141002017-01-05T11:54:00.001-08:002017-01-05T11:54:07.440-08:00Happy New Year!Presenting my first made thing of 2017!<br />
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It's just a little handkerchief to practice some embroidery and blanket stitching. Plus, acorns are lucky, right? <br />
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<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-92220579921460082792016-12-19T12:16:00.001-08:002016-12-19T12:16:17.868-08:00Victorian Christmas at the Painted LadyI did it! It happened!<br />
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That is, everything except the sleeves, which were sacrificed in favor of quick pull-through puffs hand stitched on that morning. I still like it!<br />
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We drove down to Myrtle Creek to the fabulous Painted Lady B&B and Tearoom for a full (read: very full. Very very full) afternoon tea in a tea room delightfully crammed with antiques and knick-knacks for sale. As far as I can tell, this is the closest place to Eugene to get the full tea experience in an historic building (Wendi, the owner, puts it around 1910) and I can't recommend it highly enough. In between delicious courses, we played I Spy and took a few pictures.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From thepaintedladybbtearoom.com</td></tr>
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Charlotte just finished finished an amazing 1890s tea gown from a certain well-known Harper's Bazaar fashion plate, and looked like a Christmas queen!<div>
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And now more pictures:</div>
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Allll of the shirring. And puffs. And swags. And paniers.</div>
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This is in the bathroom because it was green.</div>
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I was trying for an awkward fashion-plate pose, I think it worked! (Isn't it so hard to know how to pose in gowns?)</div>
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Happy Victorian Christmas!</div>
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-24460174618514185982016-12-16T11:37:00.002-08:002016-12-16T11:37:48.891-08:00A Victorian Christmas Part 2, and Sleeves.<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The last week has been characterized by a despondency relating directly to the systematic (temporary) demise of all my sewing machines, and the return of a faithful loaner. However, I have been saved by a Christmas Miracle, in the form of an early present from my Lovey Dove, who researched, saved, consulted, and bought me the nicest civilian machine I have ever owned.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZEMzWvraeskCofQy6huVJ2EDghebp32O7WMYW8KtY9W2Qzsl6hvOCkcCcmHNNNgOcZGoYP7jPowFbUF2pcQSXOQPnFibOUp_zbFO0nJnoEda9Phk0pVc6oUtcl56RIkPm-tj2ZxzThM/s1600/IMG_2426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmZEMzWvraeskCofQy6huVJ2EDghebp32O7WMYW8KtY9W2Qzsl6hvOCkcCcmHNNNgOcZGoYP7jPowFbUF2pcQSXOQPnFibOUp_zbFO0nJnoEda9Phk0pVc6oUtcl56RIkPm-tj2ZxzThM/s320/IMG_2426.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I truly believe this Janome DC2014 is going to be a paradigm-changer for my sewing life. With an incredibly diverse and jam-proof machine, featuring an even-feed foot, one-step buttonholes, overcast options, and feed-dog adjustment, I was given the gift of extra weeks in the year (losing many to sewing machine frustration) and a pathway to cleaner, more professional sewing. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice, front on the left and back on the right.</td></tr>
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First stages of skirt</div>
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I did a lot of studying of the late natural form/late bustle transitional period from 1880-1883, and wibbled a lot on what I wanted this skirt to convey. I decided to settle on the small perky bum and slim skirt of 1881. </div>
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Speaking of perky bums, I thought this addition to Truly Victorian's petticoat pattern really helped. For 1882-1883, I might add ruffles in the front as well, for that all-around, pre-bustle roundness.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In a reversal of the Early Natural Form silhouette (narrow hips, wide at the feet), the Late Natural Form is wider at the hips and narrower at the feet.<br /></td></tr>
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Finally starting to look like something! Before filling in with paniers, puffs, and ruches. And lots of elastic, so I can actually walk in a skirt that slim. I'm quite sure they used elastic in the late Victorian era, I have a Godey's pattern that specifically calls for it. </div>
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As far as sleeves go, I wanted to do tight elbow sleeves that were completely shirred, with small elbow flounces. However, to save on time, I decided to reduce the number of gathering lines to create ruched mameluke sleeves, which I did not think were particularly period for the year. Imagine my surprise when I found actual images of puffed or ruched mameluke-type sleeves in fashion plates of the time! <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Der Bazar 1882: " height="640" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/b8/ea/b0/b8eab080adbe2f658ca1d34c1d56957c.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="430" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faux elbow puff on right</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="I like the Napoleonic feel to the pink dress - the little bolero and the puffed sleeve caps with the tight-buttoned lower sleeve. Mode Vraies, 1882: " height="640" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/ea/ba/ab/eabaabae95c1f92d30051a2522d3946e.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="408" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper puffs on the left, lower puffs on the right.<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Le Salon de la Mode 1882: " src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/2d/5b/db/2d5bdb78d176e00ec1a7b04631d0d35c.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Definitely mamelukes on the left</td></tr>
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And Voila! Ruched-bicep double-puff mamelukes just like I wanted!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxBnn4cIZTCdviO4pwFIBIfEdZOd91KbVK_Gtnf01tRshZCuuqR3T6fLeu0viROiMA_t_MK1P3uYutlGGHAZ95-CeuaHGtro-l6jSB4yE2tBUiPbpiIf2TjrTJbXfjoQ4lOQim8iPTeU/s1600/IMG_2425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxBnn4cIZTCdviO4pwFIBIfEdZOd91KbVK_Gtnf01tRshZCuuqR3T6fLeu0viROiMA_t_MK1P3uYutlGGHAZ95-CeuaHGtro-l6jSB4yE2tBUiPbpiIf2TjrTJbXfjoQ4lOQim8iPTeU/s320/IMG_2425.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Plus, the paperwhites are blooming. Happy Victorian Christmas!</div>
<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-70496986483659709172016-11-30T09:35:00.001-08:002016-11-30T09:35:29.045-08:00A Victorian Christmas After All?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It seems that this fall/winter is the season that sees me finish projects I started last year at the same time. Which means the projects that I started this fall/winter will probably be finished next year. I can live with it!</div>
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When cleaning my sewing room the friday after Thanksgiving, fussy and discontented with all my current projects being in the mockup/fitting stage, I came across a natural form-era gown that I had painstakingly patterned, fit, and cut <i>last year</i>. I had put it to the side because it is an exercise in shirring, and I didn't feel ready for it until now.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqzVlPSyTh4Of8VLqcdh6t-jU1gXDOn-e2vwA9QrD218GSGMjUvZ_b268mV4PXPVVbtJLs_t1jXm-XEOGg27Jxh6f0g5KJLzKaN8UGF5okIOiFlebFOi-tfRxJ1MxWZdZO9cRhQjqyHo/s1600/IMG_2340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqzVlPSyTh4Of8VLqcdh6t-jU1gXDOn-e2vwA9QrD218GSGMjUvZ_b268mV4PXPVVbtJLs_t1jXm-XEOGg27Jxh6f0g5KJLzKaN8UGF5okIOiFlebFOi-tfRxJ1MxWZdZO9cRhQjqyHo/s320/IMG_2340.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
It turns out, hand gathering is the perfect thing to do at the table by the fire with guests for the whole weekend. I based the gown on the fan-front bodice by Truly Victorian made to the lines of a long 1880 cuirasse bodice. It is in a sheer, moss-gold-green poly chiffon, which was almost too cheap to mention (it was leftover from wedding decor and I was broke) but I believe will give a good effect overall.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Tld_wwA2AgfycwqP8E3nO9uuS7JaKV-NfxbZ0FDPgoXWPb1p_uUJOs_ua2AbjJzRTVkGqM-6UIC47EY4yiOIUE1XveqFT9C9JXN65_WJRSlp4HyZIT8-sLgzNouAyyWwXFvVERa3qA/s1600/IMG_2342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1Tld_wwA2AgfycwqP8E3nO9uuS7JaKV-NfxbZ0FDPgoXWPb1p_uUJOs_ua2AbjJzRTVkGqM-6UIC47EY4yiOIUE1XveqFT9C9JXN65_WJRSlp4HyZIT8-sLgzNouAyyWwXFvVERa3qA/s320/IMG_2342.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdklYrmJbDHLCyldwtaDWsms4wMOrMs4LjDesAGlxRlCkQ2ceOaYOdvk1HwJq-mzI8QECVaoI4CDtOAT56ARtH6kZf6pee_lkdv_1ceAs1LiHDHsBkyIss1RcNenfezACuR3xfoYHLNM/s1600/IMG_2356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdklYrmJbDHLCyldwtaDWsms4wMOrMs4LjDesAGlxRlCkQ2ceOaYOdvk1HwJq-mzI8QECVaoI4CDtOAT56ARtH6kZf6pee_lkdv_1ceAs1LiHDHsBkyIss1RcNenfezACuR3xfoYHLNM/s320/IMG_2356.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Experimenting with draping paniers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRnGrd9tBkfiG8dkjqh9Fib9vprULfSJkty5RYYwPhBtq6aK2IAbF8B2uz2fQhjVKhqY-OJHzqdKjgb72Q-pW7dol_MsLhBRoNowKf7E0OMWWkrtHejobABu3fmYhcAi4juse2htBvG1g/s1600/IMG_2358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRnGrd9tBkfiG8dkjqh9Fib9vprULfSJkty5RYYwPhBtq6aK2IAbF8B2uz2fQhjVKhqY-OJHzqdKjgb72Q-pW7dol_MsLhBRoNowKf7E0OMWWkrtHejobABu3fmYhcAi4juse2htBvG1g/s320/IMG_2358.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The bright green underskirt/lining will be completely covered by the chiffon; oddly enough, this was the only backing that I felt brought out the 'true color' of the sheer fabric.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIuaxo3vyDdcaTfSsPxzUSq_blWOakr1IgMjPxOzOfSZnmxiI0938J-VwPkBWhvEUIalJUWJ26Tin0DAjDwdy_nve320a4cSH9npgT9RNSZ4U8hZcJcXddPrgg4dzvgBDAJlYLs5GOSus/s1600/IMG_2361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIuaxo3vyDdcaTfSsPxzUSq_blWOakr1IgMjPxOzOfSZnmxiI0938J-VwPkBWhvEUIalJUWJ26Tin0DAjDwdy_nve320a4cSH9npgT9RNSZ4U8hZcJcXddPrgg4dzvgBDAJlYLs5GOSus/s320/IMG_2361.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tape has been stitched to the shirring in the back train where it isn't fully lined.</td></tr>
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My main design questions are the direction of shirring on the skirt: Vertical like this:</div>
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<img alt="Mody Paryzkie 1879.: Concert dress with panier and long train with ricsh mousseline balayeuse.: " src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/2b/65/ba/2b65ba7206ed6d7b1bf9cab98c162984.jpg" /></div>
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Or horizontal like this? (on the left)</div>
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<img alt="The Season 1883: " src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/bb/d0/9a/bbd09a27eb62cc04fd6f98682e3a7bcb.jpg" /></div>
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OR horizontal with poofs like the one on the right below?</div>
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<img alt="Revue de la Mode 1881: " src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/39/aa/a4/39aaa47ae53ce2e1342b83b62589b490.jpg" /></div>
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Honestly, I might just go with whatever seems less time consuming, since I now have the slightest hope of a new gown for this year's Victorian Christmas Tea on the 17th! (Can totally do this...)</div>
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<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-2365926907970956182016-11-16T14:24:00.003-08:002016-11-16T14:25:10.007-08:00What I've been up to lately...Treating my dressform like a large doll<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvG_aUKoTDO9-eWgd-W3NCempFHBOOBx4QJLr1uYLuAQg_2gqWTczhucnLlfjxN-Pda5BaXDY4HYKPDqLhdx8e1NKspkYt65RX8rNDDlkOaCUboCPum0LZM18Z7xrTr5cqBWZrskPL10Y/s1600/IMG_2242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvG_aUKoTDO9-eWgd-W3NCempFHBOOBx4QJLr1uYLuAQg_2gqWTczhucnLlfjxN-Pda5BaXDY4HYKPDqLhdx8e1NKspkYt65RX8rNDDlkOaCUboCPum0LZM18Z7xrTr5cqBWZrskPL10Y/s320/IMG_2242.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1950s style petticoat over 18th c. Paniers</td></tr>
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Mocking up a turn-of-the-century princess gown</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc276f7zTnGoWYwmx6cyuHEIwzZ7F8hBjktyMBd2vMLbpOAElexAf2meKbxWkUoavUIzXX-Q65Jfh9_1hECwoVgVch2ezJi2SdjUd6Ybl9WVi3Ug5hK5jkapGbtEOCfbAgzROwA4Brew/s1600/IMG_2230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc276f7zTnGoWYwmx6cyuHEIwzZ7F8hBjktyMBd2vMLbpOAElexAf2meKbxWkUoavUIzXX-Q65Jfh9_1hECwoVgVch2ezJi2SdjUd6Ybl9WVi3Ug5hK5jkapGbtEOCfbAgzROwA4Brew/s320/IMG_2230.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tight sleeves with a slight head, and a tight bodice with as few seams as possible. What could go wrong?</td></tr>
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Trying out Norah Waugh's 1904 ribbon corset, and dying my own linings to match</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZGA5sfQwr-f7NCnQmXJwcBHjp9jnPiA5B_X-qTrlCjYlpTUuY4FM0kV1EWoaPw4oicCUawgjvmW1nrra5yId9mSVdpFmhg-0ZpDeey_azI-cbqf6Eq1_f3guIDZ6YScSKG83v3zCXpY/s1600/IMG_2247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZGA5sfQwr-f7NCnQmXJwcBHjp9jnPiA5B_X-qTrlCjYlpTUuY4FM0kV1EWoaPw4oicCUawgjvmW1nrra5yId9mSVdpFmhg-0ZpDeey_azI-cbqf6Eq1_f3guIDZ6YScSKG83v3zCXpY/s320/IMG_2247.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Planning an evening gown</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPHTorVAPShMhMjDhua8vN80uQapMAdhd751xWCpHrOaT2v93jywA6axE2X3p7miE2AXPKYNA8fQ_WlCr8-fjaQuaFXKyJMVBQ_q-xJ99SvizTel0pjzh8qASJMoAXtF0yDiiMtjaHF8/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPHTorVAPShMhMjDhua8vN80uQapMAdhd751xWCpHrOaT2v93jywA6axE2X3p7miE2AXPKYNA8fQ_WlCr8-fjaQuaFXKyJMVBQ_q-xJ99SvizTel0pjzh8qASJMoAXtF0yDiiMtjaHF8/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The one one the right? Mauve silk taffeta?</td></tr>
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Reading the very charming Tales Told in Holland, usually while sitting by the fire</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvbhmeCl2b2WALqXileMjnYrStp31_9gG8WSjv4_IXkW3ACQnytG0HS879sJTXC1JLh6Xa_pTGd35XeHSCcKrN563yf5fUUUmse8hpooOb6w7GLoyt9hkG-Su9DIASIKDWqaVAMLFoEE/s1600/FullSizeRender+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvbhmeCl2b2WALqXileMjnYrStp31_9gG8WSjv4_IXkW3ACQnytG0HS879sJTXC1JLh6Xa_pTGd35XeHSCcKrN563yf5fUUUmse8hpooOb6w7GLoyt9hkG-Su9DIASIKDWqaVAMLFoEE/s320/FullSizeRender+%25281%2529.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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And, you know, some other stuff. Toodles!</div>
Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-47908534828662360962016-11-08T12:41:00.001-08:002016-11-08T12:41:53.602-08:00Ozma's Diadem<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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The fabrication of the iconic Diadem was no simple matter. The poppies were easy enough, I had dyed silk organza a bright red (redder than the photo) and formed the petals. The stamens were black beads twisted on gold colored wire and sewn to a black velvet pad. I made the stems by pulling upholstery cord through a silk bias tube. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUi1BqXfOu9RnVtwytcMbpLgBL4ybj2ay_iibIcesYWO0YL6-PcjSwD1vznNTOaFbSqQHMd-t6OGQ9r2TsiJ4jbfLSfGBp-QD5rlqrGIuXT8F3YdbFKPyh_imzREvf0kk-AZNJqbGT0-k/s1600/IMG_2159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUi1BqXfOu9RnVtwytcMbpLgBL4ybj2ay_iibIcesYWO0YL6-PcjSwD1vznNTOaFbSqQHMd-t6OGQ9r2TsiJ4jbfLSfGBp-QD5rlqrGIuXT8F3YdbFKPyh_imzREvf0kk-AZNJqbGT0-k/s400/IMG_2159.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">For the center piece, I decided to go with Bronzclay, since I had experimented with it last year, and had all of the tools. If you haven't used precious metal clay before, it is amazing stuff. You roll it, mold it, stamp it, sculpt it, like a regular (albeit very sticky and finicky) clay, then you bake it in a kiln and it </span><i style="text-align: left;">becomes</i><span style="text-align: left;"> metal. The finish is very matte after baking, the shine was achieved after an hour with a dremel and some jewelry-grade buffing oil. The bubbles and pits had to do, I think, with the firing: the piece was a little too big for the pan, and I might not have kneaded the air out enough to start. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAfCcpypR69kZ-JSx8DmhBKuCfqGB-lUaO61jthHIRtfiKA88HwmNkCgkAR76y1cUUfMRZTRQPfVbRsUb3OS70FUez-GesTDH24Mfl_RGvIITseMJ9tkhieMDtDmKJcX5oeb4iLZZ774/s1600/IMG_2160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsAfCcpypR69kZ-JSx8DmhBKuCfqGB-lUaO61jthHIRtfiKA88HwmNkCgkAR76y1cUUfMRZTRQPfVbRsUb3OS70FUez-GesTDH24Mfl_RGvIITseMJ9tkhieMDtDmKJcX5oeb4iLZZ774/s320/IMG_2160.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The bands are simply corset boning painted gold. The centerpiece clips onto the bands using some prongs I set into the back, also made of clay. This worked way better than I would have thought.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzjxfl-pfsnUql3zI9FXL6CCXzt65iLaYChM380JE66XHODcopct5t-e9Y5L8ExTPKyIh-u1HvHZXWVBshehQc7KXZpdMdQd_pPWs7zqR8W42OPQ0Rg4FFE4IjY8nULRjbxHzAUFEWVk/s1600/IMG_2164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzjxfl-pfsnUql3zI9FXL6CCXzt65iLaYChM380JE66XHODcopct5t-e9Y5L8ExTPKyIh-u1HvHZXWVBshehQc7KXZpdMdQd_pPWs7zqR8W42OPQ0Rg4FFE4IjY8nULRjbxHzAUFEWVk/s320/IMG_2164.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ta da!</div>
<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-78354881690035459672016-10-25T12:16:00.002-07:002016-10-25T12:16:55.404-07:00Ozma of Oz<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgjejpJg6Wu4bE8jZ0q9XTNzfeIkCvC6IAJD6oEkiTPB1BleNYJQorYwmfprC17j4Xqf2ZvWbdbHQ1OY9Fa52y36MHP6UjIMnH9IiyfrE8igf0o7J1eVAHI4TCN73IBkXe4bb8j5HcLT4/s1600/LostPrinPlate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgjejpJg6Wu4bE8jZ0q9XTNzfeIkCvC6IAJD6oEkiTPB1BleNYJQorYwmfprC17j4Xqf2ZvWbdbHQ1OY9Fa52y36MHP6UjIMnH9IiyfrE8igf0o7J1eVAHI4TCN73IBkXe4bb8j5HcLT4/s320/LostPrinPlate.jpg" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: start;">The Lost Princess of Oz</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"> (1916). Illustration by John R. Neill</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I had the chance this year to go to a Wizard of Oz themed Steampunk party in October. Being a minor Oz expert, and already having a green gown, I knew my role would be Ozma, Ruler of Oz. <br />
<br />
Finished pictures now, I'll break down the costume and accessories in the next post!<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQGw86kI8oP7wnJrbX64U4q2s8paFqKSUi-z1-mRLH3IizIiLq4aTW8OGxCYCMse65YRvzlUYH_xZmZs2ZcnSCQwrMOUsxBnlTNlAN4jSA9fokpq-2A4eBkTRglhXmIIiGx9nXcLrqCkY/s1600/oz2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQGw86kI8oP7wnJrbX64U4q2s8paFqKSUi-z1-mRLH3IizIiLq4aTW8OGxCYCMse65YRvzlUYH_xZmZs2ZcnSCQwrMOUsxBnlTNlAN4jSA9fokpq-2A4eBkTRglhXmIIiGx9nXcLrqCkY/s320/oz2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-34476036125148276182015-11-16T10:19:00.002-08:002015-11-16T10:19:52.742-08:00The Wedding Suit, Construction and Completion<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Construction<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The waistcoat was made first, being small and
attainable. While I love the finished
look of a shawl collar, I decided to go with a laid-on collar because it
reduced bulk in the back and allowed for a nice inner curve to the lapels,
which I coveted. The construction for
this was fairly simple, and when he wore it out into the afternoon sunlight the
big cut-glass beads along the lapels shot shafts of colored light.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnGkUrFsYyzOcACdhGV0eQ7rS_Ma5yyAuelTPlac6NJk1jxaE3fSkYIuheEzYKBjNTPfl-ubbRUHZ4gP5PSS7Q1E7TtenvZqstPBlJhYpCTvl8OqOW2DCj8cLLjm5M-6YW4wGy9gQV6c/s1600/IMG_0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnGkUrFsYyzOcACdhGV0eQ7rS_Ma5yyAuelTPlac6NJk1jxaE3fSkYIuheEzYKBjNTPfl-ubbRUHZ4gP5PSS7Q1E7TtenvZqstPBlJhYpCTvl8OqOW2DCj8cLLjm5M-6YW4wGy9gQV6c/s320/IMG_0974.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waistcoat lapels at edges, beaded before cutting.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I tailored the coat next, padstitching it to hair canvas,<i>The Victorian Tailor by Jason Mclachlann. </i>Go there if you want to feel small and
insignificant under the weight of the lifetime of mastery it takes to really be
a tailor. For example, the essential art
of shaping the suit with an iron “is not included in the scope of this book”,
but most other things are.<o:p></o:p></div>
a
technique I learned through the glorious Gertie’s Blog for Better Sewing. If you want to know how to tailor, go
there. I also had lotsa help from <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I sewed the back and shoulder seams by hand, because I did
not have a zipper foot that could get close enough to the beadwork for a smooth
seam. The tendrils curling onto the
front don’t meet at the shoulder seams, and that was unfortunate, but better
luck next time! It’s not like it was
easy!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The jacket was fully bag-lined with two inside welt pockets
and lots glass buttons. I made keyhole
buttonholes on my friend’s Janome. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioPMF7RpB76k7VvuNOMEuvasGL9LO3i12bqBD95O5n8zxh4AmGDQbkQWx-1Cy5qS7DnXLiD5Gsxxc9XVEGISsQzm8460hdJHrjGaT61rVe5oUoGzDRH1cB5jEE5BK2ms2Bi0ObUuherD4/s1600/IMG_0553+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioPMF7RpB76k7VvuNOMEuvasGL9LO3i12bqBD95O5n8zxh4AmGDQbkQWx-1Cy5qS7DnXLiD5Gsxxc9XVEGISsQzm8460hdJHrjGaT61rVe5oUoGzDRH1cB5jEE5BK2ms2Bi0ObUuherD4/s320/IMG_0553+%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I practiced my padstitching on the Suit's predecessor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH55Wj2-uZvqwy2Dm_nk2JgHj_ntn_x2KziWfhYvhxbJpsM5N5MetDOJf1NFwQb983kK3bRwdlhzFEFrwGp3A0O-18rDDGJoyEWZvXwGZ_D-ngMLsBvvdk9v4pU4UVh7CxpY5mlw2b4FQ/s1600/IMG_1048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH55Wj2-uZvqwy2Dm_nk2JgHj_ntn_x2KziWfhYvhxbJpsM5N5MetDOJf1NFwQb983kK3bRwdlhzFEFrwGp3A0O-18rDDGJoyEWZvXwGZ_D-ngMLsBvvdk9v4pU4UVh7CxpY5mlw2b4FQ/s320/IMG_1048.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look at the hand on that gab!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRjQ4zBd3f4TuqBrkr3PZBxnCI8NDHdA3JXLqjdAlDSF3vTA0AtnA4Rgy55dGplMef_nL7-IC0yDD82cqeJ9fq7mZZNg-iwVjXQCQ2ZpAKa22U-lpqotvlFF4SR-HQ6MtqOJoV2YWIMc/s1600/IMG_1049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRjQ4zBd3f4TuqBrkr3PZBxnCI8NDHdA3JXLqjdAlDSF3vTA0AtnA4Rgy55dGplMef_nL7-IC0yDD82cqeJ9fq7mZZNg-iwVjXQCQ2ZpAKa22U-lpqotvlFF4SR-HQ6MtqOJoV2YWIMc/s320/IMG_1049.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently I only took pictures of the sleeves while constructing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgd3IiP-9Q8-F81neUmKJqt3SKEDajZbXuhXTVVrEeqejiwmXqn5WBfI0A6EqUd8k3gjQwF8HVuymg_EjNPJhvtofcUKw185eWRv4HtXgnoROIPuxjIIg3PZdxFikl2P0vhkEqf-QiTIE/s1600/IMG_1050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgd3IiP-9Q8-F81neUmKJqt3SKEDajZbXuhXTVVrEeqejiwmXqn5WBfI0A6EqUd8k3gjQwF8HVuymg_EjNPJhvtofcUKw185eWRv4HtXgnoROIPuxjIIg3PZdxFikl2P0vhkEqf-QiTIE/s320/IMG_1050.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the right you can see the back panels painstakingly handstitched together.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The trousers were probably the most complicated! I started with the laughing moon California
pants pattern, and changed it to reflect the grown-on waistband that gets all
cool and high in the back. It was to be
held up with suspenders for a smooth line over the abdomen. I followed the trousers instructions in The
Victorian Tailor for making up. After cutting
the facings, interfacing, suspender button stays, pocket stays, waist stays,
hip stays, curtains, pockets, etc. I
must have had 30 pieces all told of three different fabrics. I did a lot of hand basting, and finished the
pockets as per the recommendations. I
had cut them slightly too short so I added a shaped facing for the hem rather
than turning it up. The nine button fly
features nine hand sewn buttonholes because the trousers were constructed over
a brutal heatwave leaving my sewing room too hot to work in and me naked in the
living room trying not to sweat on the gabardine.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
We completed the outfit with silk trouser socks from REI, an
antique brooch in the figure of Hanuman, a vintage Italian tuxedo shirt with a
pique front, vintage studs and cuff links that I had bought him years ago, and
the most gorgeous shoes I have ever seen.
They were ordered from Pakistan, and embroidered with gold thread and
tiny metal coils, which is apparently what bullion is! It was like if Aladdin was Cinderella. We kept them secret until the very day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6T0STaZrx04_6h1NeUsm0Nm3SXGWKycWso3991BRqDn1WUuE4x-6FY6VlxZZ1y7qirwV9-A4ttMT69p8KvqVfB0ttMrsKoqV7oxZ3pjzQywszTESz835A-A21zfNuqrUDqmMSMNNZrM/s1600/IMG_0849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6T0STaZrx04_6h1NeUsm0Nm3SXGWKycWso3991BRqDn1WUuE4x-6FY6VlxZZ1y7qirwV9-A4ttMT69p8KvqVfB0ttMrsKoqV7oxZ3pjzQywszTESz835A-A21zfNuqrUDqmMSMNNZrM/s320/IMG_0849.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoes and wedding china!<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All together now!</div>
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-2317566940179591592015-11-16T09:53:00.001-08:002015-11-16T09:53:34.128-08:00A Wedding Suit for a Sun Prince<div class="MsoNormal">
When I decided to marry my darling dumpling, and that I was
going to have the finest and most spectacular dress I could possibly imagine, I
knew that he must have the finest and most spectacular suit <i>he</i> could possibly imagine. Luckily he already knew what he wanted, and
the first sketch I made in my school notebook looks a lot like the finished
product. We decided on a morning suit in
ivory, elaborately embellished somehow.
It seemed most reasonable that the embellishment be glass beads, and
such a thing only seemed reasonable because I had recently acquired an eight
foot long rolling quilting frame that seated six. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I had never made a full tailored suit before, so to practice
and also to time things out, as well as perfecting fitting, I made a full
wearable mockup in a dandy striped cotton. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGVarfDp5Yb2b4xAx5iRC0bMNet5tEIO9riVVuAwcbklscDT42UYm_SUNZE-acW16qWTSZGLMmTMU96ncwWl5fm4c6qVbbPcYoSIGB8Vcvm6pdahglEklCrXzNicNCg7NSIF7lT-bS40o/s1600/20660900996_cc9064118e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGVarfDp5Yb2b4xAx5iRC0bMNet5tEIO9riVVuAwcbklscDT42UYm_SUNZE-acW16qWTSZGLMmTMU96ncwWl5fm4c6qVbbPcYoSIGB8Vcvm6pdahglEklCrXzNicNCg7NSIF7lT-bS40o/s320/20660900996_cc9064118e_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I had already made him a shawl-collared double-breasted
waistcoat the previous year in the same fabric, so he had a smart suit going
on, and I had a waistcoat and coat pattern, both of which I adapted from the
Simplicity pattern. Here as well, full
historical perfection was not what was required, but I was not going to scrimp
on any technique!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Finding the fabric was a challenge; I could not procure an
ivory gabardine for even ready money.
Moire was too distracting, faille too ribbed. I was sincerely considering duchesse silk
satin and groaning at the thought.
Finally I discovered wool/silk gabardine which is carried at Fashion
Fabrics Club in a dizzying array of colors, including the perfect ivory. It cost about as much as the duchesse satin,
but for some reason seemed hardier. It
was.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbXPBhkvrtVnCD-E9_zUQK6ps_AsCuqwqQ9trEf3VjsAT6DOUXTNX8vwuiePI9OiwOxTc0nPJIZ2SJQ5RCj76c4wWFYDUHm2ncXq7sp6SoQQnB7zHQgJs4yXXvlvHQea_Nr5nu5IMonI/s1600/gabardine.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbXPBhkvrtVnCD-E9_zUQK6ps_AsCuqwqQ9trEf3VjsAT6DOUXTNX8vwuiePI9OiwOxTc0nPJIZ2SJQ5RCj76c4wWFYDUHm2ncXq7sp6SoQQnB7zHQgJs4yXXvlvHQea_Nr5nu5IMonI/s1600/gabardine.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slk-wool gabardine from Fashion Fabrics Club.</td></tr>
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Sewing folks, use this fabric. It has an amazing subtle sheen almost like
satin, a dense weave, and a firm hand. A
tube stands up on the table. It presses
perfectly, and stretches on the bias. It
was quite expensive and worth every penny as the canvas for a glass and crystal
masterpiece. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I took my cue from historical embroidered garments where the
pattern pieces are embellished before they are cut. Bit by bit, I traced the pattern pieces on
paper and drew in the beading design in pencil.
This was then transferred to the fabric using a light box, or in my
case, a window as a leaf in a dinner table with lamps under it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi99h-Lsau2sET88iz5U9xCaVD4pUmrTDEW0MrK9UPCIZRehagiGCvXJa9sTtjbt9ofgzdN9xHtO8-OjiKgBmEROI5yXSAiL_JQjlcVPqpnYV3EJ4jAjuLBbx4mhZp3axIdFH5h8juKqI/s1600/IMG_0740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi99h-Lsau2sET88iz5U9xCaVD4pUmrTDEW0MrK9UPCIZRehagiGCvXJa9sTtjbt9ofgzdN9xHtO8-OjiKgBmEROI5yXSAiL_JQjlcVPqpnYV3EJ4jAjuLBbx4mhZp3axIdFH5h8juKqI/s320/IMG_0740.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Improvised lightbox</td></tr>
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M chose the main iris motif of my own gown
for the back of his jacket, inverted, with the long curling fronds at the
shoulders, tapering to a point at the waist seam. The rest of the beading I made up, spots of
density to mark out lapels and collars, a smattering of vertical bugles on the
sleeves suggesting epaulets, a bright crystal at his heart. The rest was individual seed beads and bugle
bead stars spaced sporadically down the garment and tails.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This frame is really big, hence its status as My Secret Sewing Weapon.<br />I got it for a latte and a pumpkin loaf</td></tr>
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After marking, the length was rolled onto the frame and
beading began in earnest. Never having
done such a thing, I went to Harlequin beads, our local bead store, and asked
advice. I came away with a bag of clear,
silver lined, and iridescent seed and bugle beads, crystals, glass pearls,
thread that looked like dental floss, and long thin needles that resembled
nothing more than wisps of steel. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First batch of beads</td></tr>
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We quickly discovered that a) the sheen of the fabric
rendered marks invisible when lit directly, b) it is hard to scoop beads out of
shallow containers, and c) even needle threaders weren’t small enough to thread
the needles. We solved the problems by
lighting underneath the fabric, which backlit the beads perfectly and helped
differentiate the silver-lined from the clear when it mattered. The beads were placed on squares of velvet,
and I threaded most of the needles, getting 10-20 at a time ready before a
session.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpYtO1TzmkCkFev5AV3LdBJfmCUKMRritOydpbs1lWLql97AJXO2L916FKMPRV_W1r7MFYKX2gjvJgJoPSZoRSFyYDMfwhlMltRkiKTabAS5PmvtCAIW06SeMatodsbA_gmJ1GqJJZnOk/s1600/IMG_0779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpYtO1TzmkCkFev5AV3LdBJfmCUKMRritOydpbs1lWLql97AJXO2L916FKMPRV_W1r7MFYKX2gjvJgJoPSZoRSFyYDMfwhlMltRkiKTabAS5PmvtCAIW06SeMatodsbA_gmJ1GqJJZnOk/s400/IMG_0779.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Backlighting makes it better!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHvMwaMtCmSNPdfNLrT75Zc33THVkdBV2ogQ2efEZk55qhLm72Mv3ZnTFMNzYWhCXruAxeM8UHtmoES6HB6Uy-_uUTHdoQj62A42fe_rBJ_qax-KSorzn4r5y9GbghxB83wzL0hoPygs/s1600/IMG_0757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHvMwaMtCmSNPdfNLrT75Zc33THVkdBV2ogQ2efEZk55qhLm72Mv3ZnTFMNzYWhCXruAxeM8UHtmoES6HB6Uy-_uUTHdoQj62A42fe_rBJ_qax-KSorzn4r5y9GbghxB83wzL0hoPygs/s320/IMG_0757.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabardine on the frame, practice beading in black.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXFVIVSqxnVKWTIthMqhrgXVPOyqv3t41C6ht3jEtlr7F-Za2NpvcfU2aR00w8K_OO0I1h19NwozEMhL3FUf-aIsX40NyzJC43l_CnhPH8OUAYr6siCzTdyVkujZNc5TG3MBRDRhscJQ/s1600/IMG_0762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXFVIVSqxnVKWTIthMqhrgXVPOyqv3t41C6ht3jEtlr7F-Za2NpvcfU2aR00w8K_OO0I1h19NwozEMhL3FUf-aIsX40NyzJC43l_CnhPH8OUAYr6siCzTdyVkujZNc5TG3MBRDRhscJQ/s320/IMG_0762.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UWDpWTcUZRu-q-rGEm3f5DptKjV9yYQinwCXklYGZgUOE0kDl8TAV-WveMZxIlKFmXVuo7xOUd1QXFajXqrwz5hG6FRl9nXY7w6xc9EiVjbvHu0brYHwQ4L5BfKhTReEzYkzTENnSqU/s1600/IMG_0778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UWDpWTcUZRu-q-rGEm3f5DptKjV9yYQinwCXklYGZgUOE0kDl8TAV-WveMZxIlKFmXVuo7xOUd1QXFajXqrwz5hG6FRl9nXY7w6xc9EiVjbvHu0brYHwQ4L5BfKhTReEzYkzTENnSqU/s320/IMG_0778.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5LAWz0U_xr0KscAq38-TLKvgvmHHQuhbA9Mi_JGUJpKsw4mM1_qST8ixbD4thcnmNj-44hcE6f8PppWw7-4dnU_TUkOfbfDObaF9HYBW2b-F-7xCqhKqKD2m_ZrK3v4iySNV8cIB4Ows/s1600/IMG_0763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5LAWz0U_xr0KscAq38-TLKvgvmHHQuhbA9Mi_JGUJpKsw4mM1_qST8ixbD4thcnmNj-44hcE6f8PppWw7-4dnU_TUkOfbfDObaF9HYBW2b-F-7xCqhKqKD2m_ZrK3v4iySNV8cIB4Ows/s320/IMG_0763.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The halves were separate, the back seam stitched by hand later to meet the beading as much as possible.</td></tr>
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We beaded for about two weeks straight over Thanksgiving
just to finish the main back motif. The
rest was done gradually but regularly.
Meanwhile, we ordered vintage cut glass buttons and a glass buckle.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nQnOBUypL0nPm4tGyMItbKFaVtvH0OyCHzVDouaiQigDX5CFr_i2JPR5o4ncUl9lsB31XcoQ8JGW5vxbw_j_yl200DHZY1xvOpIxbsyLKJX9k-p3Bmt00TPbXelfQf5VmsxbbRvgtxA/s1600/IMG_0765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5nQnOBUypL0nPm4tGyMItbKFaVtvH0OyCHzVDouaiQigDX5CFr_i2JPR5o4ncUl9lsB31XcoQ8JGW5vxbw_j_yl200DHZY1xvOpIxbsyLKJX9k-p3Bmt00TPbXelfQf5VmsxbbRvgtxA/s320/IMG_0765.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outline of main back motif</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBTBvELPaUl-FMNUmOotflOPAW1DqBbfJ2tx1O8EXCM5koqKvLomCyhPEyICDYdYmse4QYh_e_GoPvNNmD0HtG3SRv8zOBJgQaL3Dq-CJZiotqaKHW0SEg7YOtAxcIyWBclvBu60gFe_U/s1600/IMG_0973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBTBvELPaUl-FMNUmOotflOPAW1DqBbfJ2tx1O8EXCM5koqKvLomCyhPEyICDYdYmse4QYh_e_GoPvNNmD0HtG3SRv8zOBJgQaL3Dq-CJZiotqaKHW0SEg7YOtAxcIyWBclvBu60gFe_U/s320/IMG_0973.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished half of back (above) with waistcoat collar (below)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnGkUrFsYyzOcACdhGV0eQ7rS_Ma5yyAuelTPlac6NJk1jxaE3fSkYIuheEzYKBjNTPfl-ubbRUHZ4gP5PSS7Q1E7TtenvZqstPBlJhYpCTvl8OqOW2DCj8cLLjm5M-6YW4wGy9gQV6c/s1600/IMG_0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnGkUrFsYyzOcACdhGV0eQ7rS_Ma5yyAuelTPlac6NJk1jxaE3fSkYIuheEzYKBjNTPfl-ubbRUHZ4gP5PSS7Q1E7TtenvZqstPBlJhYpCTvl8OqOW2DCj8cLLjm5M-6YW4wGy9gQV6c/s320/IMG_0974.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waistcoat collar with sample beading</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfxRY618XokzK9eMSAm2mV4SzPcqW_QWANAvWcTXS7jrMWvfZkqU811vt0wGnP67DNu1Eu8XYsqwCsjxlZuU8iSHfrlXM6ZEJWmrk2PFPIqVTR26LqnljHwnPyQJqxMz4H27BqOFH9ZpQ/s1600/IMG_0984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfxRY618XokzK9eMSAm2mV4SzPcqW_QWANAvWcTXS7jrMWvfZkqU811vt0wGnP67DNu1Eu8XYsqwCsjxlZuU8iSHfrlXM6ZEJWmrk2PFPIqVTR26LqnljHwnPyQJqxMz4H27BqOFH9ZpQ/s320/IMG_0984.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back fronds curled over shoulders</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMgIpyQdGBTWK9nGGXIlEy_d-soaBq0q_AVf-L_e_17xcEDdXvR39UDgjzouWKj1YKOmoyskriKKaDTfjnKXanciTSxmENv8XfoCS6-INtGigcDyRnPIjrMw9DcN5kY9kmhhPu2jAV10/s1600/IMG_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMgIpyQdGBTWK9nGGXIlEy_d-soaBq0q_AVf-L_e_17xcEDdXvR39UDgjzouWKj1YKOmoyskriKKaDTfjnKXanciTSxmENv8XfoCS6-INtGigcDyRnPIjrMw9DcN5kY9kmhhPu2jAV10/s320/IMG_0985.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other shoulder, the threads are visible because of the underlighting, which makes the silver-lined beads look almost black.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlW6yxeIJ6xHs_4zFhbla1QyEBkqop5bcJ8GWBKQ2xP7DQUMqFriWoS_YrpzWsKZE4K6deiFEVrJQNOWPNC-0z0WDKTOhBE9xIl0S93eUd1aPAEZkqDpQv2R9PuKTLy3JezFQ5JL38-I/s1600/IMG_1027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlW6yxeIJ6xHs_4zFhbla1QyEBkqop5bcJ8GWBKQ2xP7DQUMqFriWoS_YrpzWsKZE4K6deiFEVrJQNOWPNC-0z0WDKTOhBE9xIl0S93eUd1aPAEZkqDpQv2R9PuKTLy3JezFQ5JL38-I/s320/IMG_1027.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Collar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJS0rsffMjQ9wOwMYBiFJFjenBuoj15NsRwBPz5ZnjSzArfuJZ30f1CtNwWSnomBqLW23dRBjLZASeAGO5k_SS9uQKR9u-y1yFCEWLZzR8VCFG9b62-XR9Am54tAUeXggLwux5SUAxJM/s1600/IMG_1029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJS0rsffMjQ9wOwMYBiFJFjenBuoj15NsRwBPz5ZnjSzArfuJZ30f1CtNwWSnomBqLW23dRBjLZASeAGO5k_SS9uQKR9u-y1yFCEWLZzR8VCFG9b62-XR9Am54tAUeXggLwux5SUAxJM/s320/IMG_1029.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of Upper Collar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-68843946171919549492015-11-06T10:05:00.002-08:002015-11-06T10:40:14.059-08:00The Dress: All together now!<div class="MsoNormal">
Oddly enough, it got finished on time; 13 months, with a few
other things going on. It was an amazing
and challenging process, and I definitely proved a lot to myself. I couldn’t
have done it without my wonderful friends, who came over all year to stir dye
baths, sew sequins, couch velvet, and give me lots of reassurance that it
actually did look okay. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It certainly turned out different from the original if one compares pictures, but I think I captured the essence of what was important to me; the silhouette, the design, the heavy embellishment and ethereal color.</div>
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And now, everything together!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4arkykLgkLT2PR2lyK7QEvfdUlqsQF8M01jSzAcpxDWN4coktNcbYbYvijHyVe3L7Cn2nJLERAb5QfY7fl2u86ezrkv4nOObMRkGQmHoT6jEIC2nUGvRcsXuSgR7qZjfcOm85D7JhQbw/s1600/Kbackfull.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4arkykLgkLT2PR2lyK7QEvfdUlqsQF8M01jSzAcpxDWN4coktNcbYbYvijHyVe3L7Cn2nJLERAb5QfY7fl2u86ezrkv4nOObMRkGQmHoT6jEIC2nUGvRcsXuSgR7qZjfcOm85D7JhQbw/s320/Kbackfull.jpg.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76Qjfk-EzLfDeycqecJPZEhRTjNtBUmKcbyE1iDmibRf1-r3h_z6EoeNilaTzzlDmywYGArTW24kMCctWGjoMXNDjnYsgir_jso8EUIHQVxslOkOL6wpnxE570OQvdtnHIJqa25uPdGQ/s1600/Kbackpartial.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76Qjfk-EzLfDeycqecJPZEhRTjNtBUmKcbyE1iDmibRf1-r3h_z6EoeNilaTzzlDmywYGArTW24kMCctWGjoMXNDjnYsgir_jso8EUIHQVxslOkOL6wpnxE570OQvdtnHIJqa25uPdGQ/s320/Kbackpartial.jpg.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQo21ptmyjZMMKbT75sGMhH9kbecGpELxttwPGu9oQI2Znq8qlBHbpLt142YOwWoLY7apZAyz35RsxtQ58R10BFyoLs_SDZVxy4VdVL4DPdwn36jje0unEMDAZlsRb4uaNyrfQxyWWvHM/s1600/Ksideways1.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQo21ptmyjZMMKbT75sGMhH9kbecGpELxttwPGu9oQI2Znq8qlBHbpLt142YOwWoLY7apZAyz35RsxtQ58R10BFyoLs_SDZVxy4VdVL4DPdwn36jje0unEMDAZlsRb4uaNyrfQxyWWvHM/s320/Ksideways1.jpg.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaPIT1OwDLLHsnmN-GHX3TDvAxGStltR_LaFO6sYD5mEG7h6bSwUSJ8g-YfGp5rfFCpiDgsD19Ia6QP144TbykZxgzDb-3eOpPyNFmPsJzZLUDs9mv7lzn6GoYX5Nfdy_ULs5qZhqtkc/s1600/Ksideways2.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkaPIT1OwDLLHsnmN-GHX3TDvAxGStltR_LaFO6sYD5mEG7h6bSwUSJ8g-YfGp5rfFCpiDgsD19Ia6QP144TbykZxgzDb-3eOpPyNFmPsJzZLUDs9mv7lzn6GoYX5Nfdy_ULs5qZhqtkc/s320/Ksideways2.jpg.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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Photos by the venerably voluptuous Melissa Mankins<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwO2cXLpkRJh7sk5zo1tSLhQoWOSYGqnICb2kzwCIT_V4VXRA0uW9oDWr1graHaLXxosGF3CMtzCA4Hip981nmghyZho0VT0rQBykYxBEnZsv5Uiu_wekX4fI7AF88ZXv7KZVaZ37mlac/s1600/aisle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwO2cXLpkRJh7sk5zo1tSLhQoWOSYGqnICb2kzwCIT_V4VXRA0uW9oDWr1graHaLXxosGF3CMtzCA4Hip981nmghyZho0VT0rQBykYxBEnZsv5Uiu_wekX4fI7AF88ZXv7KZVaZ37mlac/s320/aisle.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQL-3enTYA3SYNrMe9lWp9KkTkJw6dlxcSLrIQaJIfYgXb9MEKcPEe661_P_WhVO08IRJWbLOjI-slIsYjBEuesCursQ_fL4CpbjEZn9kvY85vJ04YcBNMVWMGcwmRriuIJ4kj990AQjo/s1600/standing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQL-3enTYA3SYNrMe9lWp9KkTkJw6dlxcSLrIQaJIfYgXb9MEKcPEe661_P_WhVO08IRJWbLOjI-slIsYjBEuesCursQ_fL4CpbjEZn9kvY85vJ04YcBNMVWMGcwmRriuIJ4kj990AQjo/s320/standing.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-35452651110302778452015-11-06T08:33:00.003-08:002015-11-06T08:33:59.810-08:00The Dress: Underpinnings and Accessories<div class="MsoNormal">
The gown is worn with a single petticoat in soft cotton
muslin. I made it as a mockup for the
skirt to try out the underskirt pattern from the same 1901 Janet Arnold gown,
but it didn’t have the right shape and sweep.
I added a shaped waistband, and layers of ruffles made on my vintage pinking
machine, which was about the easiest thing to do ever. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicoFNPsh6MXLAzmocDhZljpJYJIUgGuEfeo7SxNC8CiBEV3ql-s6hVcDp9aDf7ePvg3RHz_zWn153hdBd9836ah2wV4gyBSYIvgS733vHzR98xC0ALmvR9et2JSaJvv7dY0vB0Iv5WWDM/s1600/20066106983_ea2c959f45_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicoFNPsh6MXLAzmocDhZljpJYJIUgGuEfeo7SxNC8CiBEV3ql-s6hVcDp9aDf7ePvg3RHz_zWn153hdBd9836ah2wV4gyBSYIvgS733vHzR98xC0ALmvR9et2JSaJvv7dY0vB0Iv5WWDM/s320/20066106983_ea2c959f45_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8Jl_klC5pVSS4MlSaOA0k-cz_V5C5ENEDtuvhsWMhKOa4-lRujuPVNYhEqJDJlUVF5D-SKhG7op2YQh24uUNzn-Ptpv-c0LNQa_t8JRLATYRE2WFimWxmiSsdktL1CmtLCdbmoTaMsA/s1600/IMG_0871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU8Jl_klC5pVSS4MlSaOA0k-cz_V5C5ENEDtuvhsWMhKOa4-lRujuPVNYhEqJDJlUVF5D-SKhG7op2YQh24uUNzn-Ptpv-c0LNQa_t8JRLATYRE2WFimWxmiSsdktL1CmtLCdbmoTaMsA/s320/IMG_0871.JPG" width="240" /></a>The corset is made from white satin coutil and boned in
white steel. I was lucky enough to find steel by the giant roll at Richard the Thread, and a belt sander in my then-fiance's metalshop,
which means I get to cut, sand, and paint my own bones! I use nail polish as per the Dreamstress’
experience, and the sander gets the tips perfectly rounded and smooth. Someday I may splurge for some plastidip, but
this is what worked now! I used the
Truly Victorian Edwardian corset pattern, but added a giant back hip gore a la
this one from Corsets and Crinolines; it was much improved!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzn9SQo2UnHkidjMuKAztijRlDA-G0VF5LwGne6kI4HSUf23yp5IGG42HkdGcvscY_YD_pWsu1_tQCFVKBzRndkISiFpQEHsS_U_pIjQdIqqgFH7fu1zoStEz2M7oXb8mnZo_fAP8NBr8/s1600/NWcorset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzn9SQo2UnHkidjMuKAztijRlDA-G0VF5LwGne6kI4HSUf23yp5IGG42HkdGcvscY_YD_pWsu1_tQCFVKBzRndkISiFpQEHsS_U_pIjQdIqqgFH7fu1zoStEz2M7oXb8mnZo_fAP8NBr8/s200/NWcorset.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1901 Corset, Nora Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLp7FPaBfDxWPrsljCsqL2jvpu9JcoJ5XjhYg4N9lC4ZfPh9RP-pMjOi65_7IPwr0NsujoK0jiM7xFsXwKFu0C9VWaQ_fxT0UdSZWzlLbKXVqCIUhqo0EIcVk8vq1M0jGtuTKtMfgZ64/s1600/IMG_0598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLp7FPaBfDxWPrsljCsqL2jvpu9JcoJ5XjhYg4N9lC4ZfPh9RP-pMjOi65_7IPwr0NsujoK0jiM7xFsXwKFu0C9VWaQ_fxT0UdSZWzlLbKXVqCIUhqo0EIcVk8vq1M0jGtuTKtMfgZ64/s320/IMG_0598.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The combination is from the same pattern, but
I took the shaped flounce and enlarged it x3 lengthwise and pinked it to make a
ruffly shaped flounce. I recommend
it! I used Dharma’s wonderful cotton
lawn; perfectly soft and drapey; stiffness is not what’s wanted here. To save time, I made the waistband out of a wide silk ribbon and shoulder ties of the same, there is a drawstring in front, the waist closes with a skirt hook and the bodice with a few snaps. <i></i><br />
<div style="display: inline !important;">
I wore a small bumpad over the corset and hip pads under.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MdbdzOdyrfcaNgk7Opyo4mBII4kfzXIC8dmrxuCKX8JJmML7UDqXdsERQpiP0vgXR9YoQCQKfoDoBKLruufvnhK5SQOBDFbUaS-9U-1dYxPxw7kvMbADXHjT-ZoveGKVn5FJcWD9EWM/s1600/MKunderwearkiss+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MdbdzOdyrfcaNgk7Opyo4mBII4kfzXIC8dmrxuCKX8JJmML7UDqXdsERQpiP0vgXR9YoQCQKfoDoBKLruufvnhK5SQOBDFbUaS-9U-1dYxPxw7kvMbADXHjT-ZoveGKVn5FJcWD9EWM/s320/MKunderwearkiss+%25282%2529.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MMMruffly drawers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIzMZwBa2FKZ7Xr7AJalxYy2AWuA09NjhIVkbqJjdWoBbx7T_V1yOY5VY0yd7xbpjHpKCmRB92EUEQZrtOtBV-bm_8H7cbfEWw2v1b2xWFteKTMFb4p2nH_dgghdVnvRpIKHMraj8cM4/s1600/Bumpad.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdIzMZwBa2FKZ7Xr7AJalxYy2AWuA09NjhIVkbqJjdWoBbx7T_V1yOY5VY0yd7xbpjHpKCmRB92EUEQZrtOtBV-bm_8H7cbfEWw2v1b2xWFteKTMFb4p2nH_dgghdVnvRpIKHMraj8cM4/s320/Bumpad.jpg.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bumpad!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Accessories<i> </i><o:p></o:p></b></div>
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To complete the look, I ordered satin <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/shoes-18th-century/highbury-dyeable-regency-slipper">Highburys from American Duchess.</a> They were meant for a
different period, but I thought they would make the perfect slippers for an
outdoor wedding. I dyed them to match,
dyed ribbons to match, and glued Swarovski flatback crystals and pearls to my
hearts delight. I found the tiara at a
local fabric store, and it was the perfect Edwardian tiara silhouette nesting
in my poofy hair. I kept jewelry simple,
mostly because I didn’t have time to make anything crazy elaborate, and went
with vintage blue rhinestone earrings and a wrapped pearl bracelet; both came
from my mother. Vintage stockings were
held up over the combination by a vintage garter belt that I just slipped on
over the corset; someday it will get its own garters!<o:p></o:p><br />
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-48020110851690959772015-11-05T13:07:00.000-08:002015-11-05T13:07:04.629-08:00The Dress: Constructing the Bodice<div class="MsoNormal">
The underbodice in silk twill was flatlined in cotton, sewn
up, faced, with a drawstring around the neck and hooks and eyes in the
back. The seams were boned with spring
steel. A tucker was made by hand-rolling thin strips of the pleated chiffon and layering it over the neckline.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5N5APUTVb8N6d359ww6Aho_ek5Oy3rEYbX0aJWRqRLxq-myjU3C8DN1RttK5o3krNQL_uehiIaYCSTIYsxPBGxq5aF3mGXxoLvxRXZbQu6U3Y0cxyism34uQYm2maFQsiZNBCKvGN4gc/s1600/20064136114_f6b1019e15_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5N5APUTVb8N6d359ww6Aho_ek5Oy3rEYbX0aJWRqRLxq-myjU3C8DN1RttK5o3krNQL_uehiIaYCSTIYsxPBGxq5aF3mGXxoLvxRXZbQu6U3Y0cxyism34uQYm2maFQsiZNBCKvGN4gc/s320/20064136114_f6b1019e15_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underbodice with first layer of tucker pinned on</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGo1k3H85UyHJekiolh3E4sRc3NTa5rDqH4o7MkkXyKjjH7VcBz1Eu7qmjvknv6d2FAjFQG59HiYjnUXcIi4nLH4BUnXDG7Shu38uPQLrxPHovtHJWIpAPz0d25hpr1m6dEDxGSVRaoE/s1600/20480356129_a6281f33f5_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgGo1k3H85UyHJekiolh3E4sRc3NTa5rDqH4o7MkkXyKjjH7VcBz1Eu7qmjvknv6d2FAjFQG59HiYjnUXcIi4nLH4BUnXDG7Shu38uPQLrxPHovtHJWIpAPz0d25hpr1m6dEDxGSVRaoE/s320/20480356129_a6281f33f5_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My dressform was barely too big. Sigh.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_pCPmYEBFAYOunRh4YHYe2YRoPxeuiWLcC7xDHS1twgfHwWqzlPLZESdJDan6wbLVc1hXz9wbNNC5_-CMX6vOJH5bd2gfYblVJVlfjd-BVIXX2wvMMk9SaIt5MMe9rVPvkRA82r8xgA/s1600/20640783496_b1721038fb_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9_pCPmYEBFAYOunRh4YHYe2YRoPxeuiWLcC7xDHS1twgfHwWqzlPLZESdJDan6wbLVc1hXz9wbNNC5_-CMX6vOJH5bd2gfYblVJVlfjd-BVIXX2wvMMk9SaIt5MMe9rVPvkRA82r8xgA/s320/20640783496_b1721038fb_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of Tucker</td></tr>
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The overbodice was sequined and appliqued in the same method
as the overskirt. The applique alone
took 26 hours. I know because I did it
while going through the first two seasons of Miss Fisher’s murder mysteries in
June 2015. One side seam was sewn, the other
placketed with hooks and eyes. The
applique around the bottom of the bodice was first couched onto silk organza,
which was then trimmed and hemmed to the back of the applique, making them
stand-alone and able to hang off of the bottom of the bodice, as well as act as
a closure. The bottom was faced with silk
organza to control the front pouch. It
was then mounted and hand-sewn on, and the last appliques sewn on by hand as
well. Then it was lots of snaps to hold
it together, as the back panel stretched across the overbodice to close at the
side, while the free hanging applique ‘strap’ wrapped around the waist to close
at the side of center back. I am really
happy with this closing arrangement; the overbodice appears almost seamless. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb4vNuenKkv8CCnBvPMKq54bWDxKmUCg7H-en0R3gwHuj1paY_1LHZJkckVuOYLhFlOXLJocU72ylCjbm9KxhOs54dOju2WH-jgNFIlEFd5siQGV6i_EXuMCWx__jiXvdKJ8hCSi_FcE/s1600/20475182400_f3b602d13d_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUb4vNuenKkv8CCnBvPMKq54bWDxKmUCg7H-en0R3gwHuj1paY_1LHZJkckVuOYLhFlOXLJocU72ylCjbm9KxhOs54dOju2WH-jgNFIlEFd5siQGV6i_EXuMCWx__jiXvdKJ8hCSi_FcE/s320/20475182400_f3b602d13d_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging-off applique first applied to silk organza</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEgD-zLnz5ci0tA_zQKMtLkMR32vn9I2bxlPl5nDS4oNQ-Qj_WPlfYwB4scXUaGGBAdaYih6ksw-478p30lHucx0oQthp-KeZCM7mKx7tBvSyy2Mq3HAjQeKfh20Ro50iJRX4_4ctgaI/s1600/20643624496_351826dfa6_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEgD-zLnz5ci0tA_zQKMtLkMR32vn9I2bxlPl5nDS4oNQ-Qj_WPlfYwB4scXUaGGBAdaYih6ksw-478p30lHucx0oQthp-KeZCM7mKx7tBvSyy2Mq3HAjQeKfh20Ro50iJRX4_4ctgaI/s320/20643624496_351826dfa6_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First the back closes, then the back panel wraps around</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2SfKkUfkD5JQy8ukyEO0G2UlSWQEOT2-4sa7baD-qAfgBFhpq-o4QcbzNhorZyV48dJE1BQTw8VkTt9R5l8NhuKx6pmN82rscj06BawfgSc0DSo0vSaCrOdomdk21Szjuegna6DmgpI/s1600/20687077455_ecff13e7a7_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT2SfKkUfkD5JQy8ukyEO0G2UlSWQEOT2-4sa7baD-qAfgBFhpq-o4QcbzNhorZyV48dJE1BQTw8VkTt9R5l8NhuKx6pmN82rscj06BawfgSc0DSo0vSaCrOdomdk21Szjuegna6DmgpI/s320/20687077455_ecff13e7a7_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side bodice closure. The hangy-down bit in the left picture<br />is wrapped and snapped at the center back motif.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZ9jScpf1JjBsyAwz9TDXWaxZInhT0s-XTbh8zR0VpwhfZReaHGUAHf_2uSgauHdS6mrpIvp3nAYjKcKJZ-oH989_qirzdETCFLwT3TmPwbKA325YpaMOhYOoPYhBsNhwraUlZzmvqaU/s1600/20498917518_fddb8d5132_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZ9jScpf1JjBsyAwz9TDXWaxZInhT0s-XTbh8zR0VpwhfZReaHGUAHf_2uSgauHdS6mrpIvp3nAYjKcKJZ-oH989_qirzdETCFLwT3TmPwbKA325YpaMOhYOoPYhBsNhwraUlZzmvqaU/s320/20498917518_fddb8d5132_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front</td></tr>
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The sleeves were my own spur-of-the-moment fancy. I admired the long drapes of the original,
but in some views they overwhelmed the dress and the chiffon I had procured did
not have nearly the same transparency as that of the original, lending a very
different effect (I may later try them out in silk gauze). So I decided to go for the ‘pulled through’
shoulder puff with puffed trim, basically the top portion of the original. After lots of futzing, I went with organza
instead of chiffon for stiffness, and then decided that glass pearls sewn in
the puffs made a nice touch. I then sort
of ‘propped them up’ high on my shoulders for mobility and cuteness; I call
them Disney Princess sleeves! But they
had the right look of the period to my eyes, at least. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-fLL2UvnN6wYkd1Olu9UV3YmTPBJ1hLIk81Q5TISECgh3kEDiVLp9dPTFGkgCjxoaPAeDIz1wx15SbLCBspvU5fAU3ZTGhznJ0GNNXqaLixv_jL8rX0dNLLZk_Lo4EaRZIewQ_78AnI/s1600/20667160395_949a5d41f3_o+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-fLL2UvnN6wYkd1Olu9UV3YmTPBJ1hLIk81Q5TISECgh3kEDiVLp9dPTFGkgCjxoaPAeDIz1wx15SbLCBspvU5fAU3ZTGhznJ0GNNXqaLixv_jL8rX0dNLLZk_Lo4EaRZIewQ_78AnI/s320/20667160395_949a5d41f3_o+%25281%2529.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeves in progress</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Jiw6mtr7exxoWvSct6yR0oLFhVN73buTi_EN5mkKs3PGMovBN0lUTmbHxgLzYxXo-haqcvNrSJxLyxGcyipU1A3QUkGyjHWkyosSRvRTxVHHxJaOYR9RvHoLliGvdetTZ1YXfcmDujE/s1600/20498677530_292d4589c3_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Jiw6mtr7exxoWvSct6yR0oLFhVN73buTi_EN5mkKs3PGMovBN0lUTmbHxgLzYxXo-haqcvNrSJxLyxGcyipU1A3QUkGyjHWkyosSRvRTxVHHxJaOYR9RvHoLliGvdetTZ1YXfcmDujE/s320/20498677530_292d4589c3_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is before I pulled up the bottom hem of the sleeves with<br />triangular insets, these were a little <i>too</i> princessy.<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3E0T0g_Zit048UpjIh_SFzTfunAml4TtvPZebkDM9cAc7nU4gf9eLoBQ11XCKwsdc0GbmP65llHP_5_uIEAOXzMcFuWohMpHNEnaA-0xjNroUdcXjrGv97W3A_8o0WsDYFFs1UC14ndA/s1600/Kbackpartial.jpg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3E0T0g_Zit048UpjIh_SFzTfunAml4TtvPZebkDM9cAc7nU4gf9eLoBQ11XCKwsdc0GbmP65llHP_5_uIEAOXzMcFuWohMpHNEnaA-0xjNroUdcXjrGv97W3A_8o0WsDYFFs1UC14ndA/s320/Kbackpartial.jpg.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Much better!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-72751151402784536132015-11-05T09:30:00.002-08:002015-11-05T13:10:20.642-08:00The Dress: Skirt ConstructionBy the time I get to putting the gown together, it is March 2015, four months before the big day. I worked on the underskirt for a week of 13 hour days, sequining on weekends, watching sooo many movies. I would like to state again that this dress in this time frame would not have been possible on my own, several dear friends spent hours and hours on the massive amount of handwork needed, and for that I owe them big time! <br />
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The Underskirt in silk twill was flatlined with cotton muslin, sewn, hung, picked out,
trimmed, hung, trimmed, sewn, hung, trimmed, hemmed. The silk twill stretched way over the cotton
on all the bias seems, leaving weird baggy butterfly wings over the diagonal
seams on the skirt. Ick! But I followed the above and eventually got
things down to shape. The tiny darts
were first basted through, then basted closed, then sewn. As you can see, the train needed a lot of
trimming to get to the correct circular shape, it stretched out to much more of
a diamond.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMc8qkEs6J6LByLdsDxZ6zouwmQiWmQH3G1fd-bCWcvB_pJc2ebCSbmulxnRzQPaQc7JlC3XeHFQppzM5FOy-B_z-3zHsAfu-uymoSCz2geC__eR2TKB6Hgl3raK9ZRu88ai16LffBUGM/s1600/20671356391_97d8632360_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMc8qkEs6J6LByLdsDxZ6zouwmQiWmQH3G1fd-bCWcvB_pJc2ebCSbmulxnRzQPaQc7JlC3XeHFQppzM5FOy-B_z-3zHsAfu-uymoSCz2geC__eR2TKB6Hgl3raK9ZRu88ai16LffBUGM/s320/20671356391_97d8632360_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before trimming</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphnrwinWrUrHMIGmkPlSoYJWCacPUUZCEljgNojwfp4FBj5jJWpbfKlj2Ekpl1bIJvdMWlJul6VOafCvCMMq7SXQKPaCizpOOu4gSgXSthw5yIOp5V3vUDGAAZFJ84r0UZEjxSFbFqi4/s1600/20046086273_87a5ac34b1_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhphnrwinWrUrHMIGmkPlSoYJWCacPUUZCEljgNojwfp4FBj5jJWpbfKlj2Ekpl1bIJvdMWlJul6VOafCvCMMq7SXQKPaCizpOOu4gSgXSthw5yIOp5V3vUDGAAZFJ84r0UZEjxSFbFqi4/s320/20046086273_87a5ac34b1_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After trimming and hemming</td></tr>
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I hemmed it, then started working on the under-hem
trimmings. This was a detail of the
original that I absolutely loved. You
can see that under the hem there is a flush folded strip of the same fabric
that goes all the way round, and under that a line of sawtooth trim. After finally figuring out how to <i>make</i> the sawtooth trim, I deemed it
impossible. Here it is: you fold the fabric in half, sew an inch or so down, cut the folded edge into neat squares, poke the corners of the squares in until they look like triangles, then slipstitch the edges. Yikes! Even if I got <i>good</i> at that I would have had to devote another 500 hours to it
(wild surmise, but probably true). So I
settled for box pleats.<br />
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The first layer of undertrim was a bias strip of silk twill
flatlined with bias silk organza and folded.
It was a weird way to do it, but it lays nicely under the skirt. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I then took a looovely shortcut and interfaced a length of
silk twill with cotton fusible interfacing before cutting it into 10” strips,
folding it in half lengthwise, and pleating it.
The resulting pleats are heavy, but they help the skirt bounce along the
ground, and the underhem trim looks wonderful when the skirt inevitably folds
up along the edge.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Pleats and underhem
trim pics<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-La7rafPS0s_J54BoN-y3R7PGSQkEIsWX78eNfHjfNoL9bpTrOyI74BSq8ojFFQF3ThUFylzEtOsooYPTHnT5k-VwfdmBDbf9O63tfjqrvjqZPNp-5A1fkNjPsgSXMYtTE-wLvK1puI/s1600/20666821625_908813eaa8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-La7rafPS0s_J54BoN-y3R7PGSQkEIsWX78eNfHjfNoL9bpTrOyI74BSq8ojFFQF3ThUFylzEtOsooYPTHnT5k-VwfdmBDbf9O63tfjqrvjqZPNp-5A1fkNjPsgSXMYtTE-wLvK1puI/s320/20666821625_908813eaa8_o.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ki8x3FnvNsK5o4Egl12m586Xa0qnFCeCUzzvsitWpU_wnnSgFZD33rOEvpRdlaGXFnR1CCorSx_RUodncpghG2nAPQGZ0qTz8gy4mnWyIaHRrJaWtirxkfYqJ-CrRHPJTabah6NWM-o/s1600/20475646480_6fa1755aec_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ki8x3FnvNsK5o4Egl12m586Xa0qnFCeCUzzvsitWpU_wnnSgFZD33rOEvpRdlaGXFnR1CCorSx_RUodncpghG2nAPQGZ0qTz8gy4mnWyIaHRrJaWtirxkfYqJ-CrRHPJTabah6NWM-o/s320/20475646480_6fa1755aec_o.jpg" width="240" /></a><i><br /></i></div>
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I then trimmed the edge in three pleated ruffles of silk
chiffon. These tiny, delicate, fluted
pleats looked near-enough impossible to do with any technology I had available,
but I took Cathy Hay’s invaluable tip to send the fabric away to get
pleated. Apparently you can do
that! It doesn’t even cost that
much! I sent the uncut, dyed yardage to
New York and two weeks later it arrived, sandwiched in white paper. <o:p></o:p><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNy2bZzJcBW9-Dul8O4SoLQHjnMqDFILR8-ml2kPM7ZVQnaVDJiXOITCRLwQzLtiOs9grwFx_JG_Xp0JFN71ik6s_BZgc1meqC5FV4HKpDfO_8uLdFUaY7MqDAVClh6jlB3JbCCuO76c/s1600/IMG_0792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNy2bZzJcBW9-Dul8O4SoLQHjnMqDFILR8-ml2kPM7ZVQnaVDJiXOITCRLwQzLtiOs9grwFx_JG_Xp0JFN71ik6s_BZgc1meqC5FV4HKpDfO_8uLdFUaY7MqDAVClh6jlB3JbCCuO76c/s320/IMG_0792.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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After carefully laying it out, cutting it into strips, and
hemming it (rolled with my fingers under a straight stitch) I gathered the
ruffle to compensate for the stretching it received during hemming, which
brought the pleats back together for dramatic fluting. I got <i>that</i>
tip from the impeccable American Duchess, who used the technique for her
pressed fluted flounces on her stunning <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/search/label/1880%20Green%20Acres%20Gown">Green Acres gown</a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Then it was a matter of pinning and sewing and pinning and
sewing. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p>Underskirt: functionally finished!</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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For the overskirt, I laid the chiffon over the pattern and
traced the outline of the skirt halves and the sequin design with pencil. One at a time, the halves were laid flat,
carefully weighted, and the sequin application began. I bought 3 144 yard rolls of pre-strung flat
sequins; I had no idea how many I might need and that gave my amazing helpy
sewers each their own spool. We used
nylon monofilament and eventually figured out that it was way easier if you
glued the sequins on with glue stick before sewing. The process was incredibly time consuming and
tedious. I didn’t dare stretch the chiffon on a frame, because when unstretched
the sequins would wriggle unpredictably; a sampler I had done previously
confirmed that. So we worked it loose
and flat, while the monofilaments caught at the sequins and snagged them out of
their carefully placed curves. I would
reckon a hundred hours. For each
half. Everybody agreed that was the
worst.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJpZWzhjEIcYPPwZwhDDTeUaW6IZKpVcSpxrY5GFwdsbRs6_LVI_ZaZJBOTVUhk3MPIE71VBdTAns8mVhacdAQ9EPICxES6jcqPXak3i6u5mwDLHUGZTG9ENAnXeyC8hxlI8CTvuhjp0/s1600/20044638664_738d742eaa_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJpZWzhjEIcYPPwZwhDDTeUaW6IZKpVcSpxrY5GFwdsbRs6_LVI_ZaZJBOTVUhk3MPIE71VBdTAns8mVhacdAQ9EPICxES6jcqPXak3i6u5mwDLHUGZTG9ENAnXeyC8hxlI8CTvuhjp0/s320/20044638664_738d742eaa_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmT3nTW6K2cbczb-Y1Ai-0sGitphZtHDPs0aorw2HiXsPPwkDinYuyi1APH8qAWowZs36rvrryJZGl1nktLgIpvHNbAXJBMZVqZ6-TdcIkkeOR2BbkEHHbMLWLLhczEXwCgDsP6FlwFOM/s1600/20048805603_43a4d4c9e1_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmT3nTW6K2cbczb-Y1Ai-0sGitphZtHDPs0aorw2HiXsPPwkDinYuyi1APH8qAWowZs36rvrryJZGl1nktLgIpvHNbAXJBMZVqZ6-TdcIkkeOR2BbkEHHbMLWLLhczEXwCgDsP6FlwFOM/s320/20048805603_43a4d4c9e1_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of two overskirt panels</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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After the sequins were finished (what a day!), the halves
were trimmed and hemmed. The last
chiffon ruffle was stitched over the hem.
A quick steam (which curled some of the plastic sequins, tarnation!) and
it was ready for the velvet. But was I?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Gpit09IjPRMYYHurtcDbKYIa3MG6x38YyfveQjH0otUxhF9eycwm98JdGuYHk5Wxz9f1uGt7tT55zAznKYRoiyulqybakpu-MJTOneMIYsyzLkPGtj2U4uOR9ZAYeSot7TR08Ocn5hg/s1600/IMG_0946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Gpit09IjPRMYYHurtcDbKYIa3MG6x38YyfveQjH0otUxhF9eycwm98JdGuYHk5Wxz9f1uGt7tT55zAznKYRoiyulqybakpu-MJTOneMIYsyzLkPGtj2U4uOR9ZAYeSot7TR08Ocn5hg/s320/IMG_0946.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XqTnTdDsBHo5cn1OgJrwU9dG3GOX5Y-dMVc2-0OMIKF7qAqIwBLz7WCxIluw5foxqMxnyL5UNf_DkjPHAyR-rY6QOsCOi0RX3jeX0sn2qSc-zmGt9AsDIgOXoyOtuhTyxxzlNacQKV4/s1600/20693843131_8cec3eb79a_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XqTnTdDsBHo5cn1OgJrwU9dG3GOX5Y-dMVc2-0OMIKF7qAqIwBLz7WCxIluw5foxqMxnyL5UNf_DkjPHAyR-rY6QOsCOi0RX3jeX0sn2qSc-zmGt9AsDIgOXoyOtuhTyxxzlNacQKV4/s320/20693843131_8cec3eb79a_z.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un-ruffled overskirt draped on underskirt. The layers must meld and flow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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My steamer was at the woodshop where my husband-to-be and
his team were using it to steambend wood for the archways that would grace our
ceremony. So I ironed the five yards of
hanging velvet with puffs of steam from my upright iron (my elbow braced
solidly on my hip) and a boar bristle hairbrush. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The motifs were traced on the backside of the velvet with a
mechanical pencil; I used dots and dashes more than lines because the pile was
so shifty. Each motif took 15 minutes to
trace, and a full hour to cut with a 45 mm rotary cutter. I kept them laid out and sandwiched between
sheets of paper until it was time to go to work.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIIlKh2P2qHxtXXHndLS69BgZigRTlsBROBqMgNUgwDVXz8XVTkAFAzOZEN9u2Vd-8A8K6h6ehO94qsiQOkG3pxsFB52MbI9e4NYFOEJGqF3fQ3OMD9OsVCL0aJX_uCw9CrGW3hcNcKM/s1600/20655855032_7937d3676c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYIIlKh2P2qHxtXXHndLS69BgZigRTlsBROBqMgNUgwDVXz8XVTkAFAzOZEN9u2Vd-8A8K6h6ehO94qsiQOkG3pxsFB52MbI9e4NYFOEJGqF3fQ3OMD9OsVCL0aJX_uCw9CrGW3hcNcKM/s320/20655855032_7937d3676c_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The observant eye will note that the velvet appliques on the
original gown have a ruched appearance.
This may be the case, or it may be wrinkling from storage. In my case, I chose to ignore it because the
feat of patterning that would give me spindly motifs that would gather neatly
down to perfect proportions sounded…iffy.
It’s possible that strips were ruched and trimmed and shaped into curls
as they were applied, which makes sense given the charming irregularity of the
hemside swirls and the fact that Worth had workhouses of skilled embroiderers
at his disposal. Since it was my first
time, I decided to go ‘easy’ and simply cut the motifs flat. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The glue stick was so effective that I used it to stick on
the motifs, arranging each frond before gluing it down. Some of the interweaving bits were left
unglued till later in the process. Then
each line was edged with satin rattail cord, couched on by hand. My assistants and I used small stitches to
‘pinch’ the cord at intervals, a look consistent with the original and
attractive in its own right. The edge of
the velvet was caught down on either side with the couching, so cord and
applique were applied in the same stroke.
Thank goodness.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF4fukZVca0ROUgwxhGnNeWh2nlyaYiUAUzxVpA-tjzIdiSbcJlY-11vzsWjOROwbBlYjYNvjuxPf0JRjaZ8PGXq2zPAQeNaREzuRp7fqCKANAc9DFNfdJSl9sByaU7HLpYV9aIlTWico/s1600/20475096670_2a2f1f949c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF4fukZVca0ROUgwxhGnNeWh2nlyaYiUAUzxVpA-tjzIdiSbcJlY-11vzsWjOROwbBlYjYNvjuxPf0JRjaZ8PGXq2zPAQeNaREzuRp7fqCKANAc9DFNfdJSl9sByaU7HLpYV9aIlTWico/s320/20475096670_2a2f1f949c_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished overksirt! The fold on the right is center front.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Each iris took 12-14 hours to couch. First, the two middle motifs on each side
were finished. Then the backs were sewn
together and the back motif was applied.
Then the fronts were seamed and the front applique was applied. I don’t really remember how I finagled that,
but there must have been enough fabric to push the rest aside. When all were
finished, the ends of the cord were threaded through awl-holes to the back,
where they were fastened to the back of the motif with tiny unobtrusive
stitches. The overskirt was draped on
the underskirt for placement; marked, trimmed, and the darts sewn up, and I
tried that puppy on. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Unfortunately, I had made the front of the underskirt a full
two inches short, which meant the whole mass pulled at the front of my ankles
as I walked; my slippers were flat, so I wanted it to just touch the
floor. To compensate, I added a shaped
yoke out of interfaced silk twill that lent a few more inches to the top of the
waist, and to my delight that mostly worked!
The underskirt pretty much hid the yoke seam. Then waistband. Then hooks and eyes. I even added the little butt pocket included
in the Janet Arnold pattern, and which also appears on the Oak Leaf Dress to
much speculation. I’m pretty sure it’s
for a fan or a hankie, but I made the opening of mine a bit small which,
combined with the awkward angle, would necessitate a lead rope to retrieve the
items.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkVVBJUpJnQqCvx9Tmyff9Wr4BuOJuVO-52dO_0rSv2wqYsul9OSh03-jsguEh1_KdnaVL_WVGAw5zhGq6OTvLU3OkBQ2xIZSYq97ThZnbTv7nYOtm5UZ9W31UexaiOzW8f-z0oAdD4g/s1600/IMG_1255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkVVBJUpJnQqCvx9Tmyff9Wr4BuOJuVO-52dO_0rSv2wqYsul9OSh03-jsguEh1_KdnaVL_WVGAw5zhGq6OTvLU3OkBQ2xIZSYq97ThZnbTv7nYOtm5UZ9W31UexaiOzW8f-z0oAdD4g/s320/IMG_1255.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLZ6gi_9k4OhIFWavol6A2-sYqN4N2BUh3f2KhmG48xJM56Ufjvl9hyqCRrnm-8vHtT9IQ37MVQH2M2rtBUxTlIgeKpBK94Fsg8fA58fSThRk_hQb_s5A4vCi5bHcLHXE-_ZOIBGPSms/s1600/IMG_1256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLZ6gi_9k4OhIFWavol6A2-sYqN4N2BUh3f2KhmG48xJM56Ufjvl9hyqCRrnm-8vHtT9IQ37MVQH2M2rtBUxTlIgeKpBK94Fsg8fA58fSThRk_hQb_s5A4vCi5bHcLHXE-_ZOIBGPSms/s320/IMG_1256.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTyzFdv68hk-wwoLBkKqwczOIfMn3j1T-cSQp2BunVV-rWd7ERHI_zwRLa5qBwTPGjoGui98O6Q7KKU3MUUfrSEmYNY-qd4rUYmch6CDnCBkoQp_dYUeNVqcHpPoOKQqzn2WMGKyDiuzw/s1600/IMG_1258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTyzFdv68hk-wwoLBkKqwczOIfMn3j1T-cSQp2BunVV-rWd7ERHI_zwRLa5qBwTPGjoGui98O6Q7KKU3MUUfrSEmYNY-qd4rUYmch6CDnCBkoQp_dYUeNVqcHpPoOKQqzn2WMGKyDiuzw/s320/IMG_1258.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The poochiness at the back was later fixed by a bumpad, and the waistband was taken in a bit at the back; the overlap was decreased to decrease bulk in general, since I found I was having to lace to 22 1/2" to fit the 23 1/2" bodice. Yikes! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It was heavy, but I did some testing by spinning around and letting the train orbit for a while; nothing came flying off, nothing ripped. Hurrah!</div>
<i><o:p></o:p></i></div>
Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-47128994402670147022015-11-05T08:24:00.003-08:002015-11-05T08:24:57.548-08:00The Dress: Patterning<div class="MsoNormal">
For the pattern, I started off with the 1901 gown from Janet
Arnold, which is also the skirt pattern for my <i>dressing gowns</i>, as it is a full circle at the hem and gives that
nice swoopy s-curve. I also used the
underbodice pattern, as I had enlarged it some time ago, but I can now tell
that the original was much closer to, if not the same as, the Oak leaf dress bodice. The overbodice was draped onto the
underbodice, the back and front are each one piece. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7tUvvRtbpNINWNndNRxrAuDeRewwvD1DH6vYI_EErxCy0ARnf7Fp-yqBzGLbhQOo57oALiIOe2a3sDFHC_zgMIqZ0uY2Eg1J0dABARZY5F2WEP1NiSAq0cIyoihM8G25jJpzRLmoJZmY/s1600/IMG_0879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7tUvvRtbpNINWNndNRxrAuDeRewwvD1DH6vYI_EErxCy0ARnf7Fp-yqBzGLbhQOo57oALiIOe2a3sDFHC_zgMIqZ0uY2Eg1J0dABARZY5F2WEP1NiSAq0cIyoihM8G25jJpzRLmoJZmY/s320/IMG_0879.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice mockup with petticoat. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
The skirt was a bit of a wrangle, as it turned out the
original had a gathered back and, as I found, you can’t just insert material
into the center back seam of a skirt with a circular hem and have it come out
not looking like a giant squared-off Grand Russian Imperial something or other. Luckily, that was fixed by using simple
geometry; a compass, protractor, and a tape measure secured to a tack. The shorter overskirt was patterned by
fiercely eyeballing the pictures and mocking up to fit. The flow and drape and size of the underskirt
was extra important because it had to fit 6 applique’d motifs that met at the
hem and hopefully appeared vertical when the skirt was worn. The skirt pattern was finished September
2014. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtUsEGrk85ojvD7jxKn0VyCmtNfdTr3cVdjmtXcbKrUeAOKzKko8nimiZgCsHeiN-X94sfsqlIxxpPnI5onkz6kIPRN2t4WukSHqG_2rEZDqz_aZN1DQ-vjLwjqUk7aNoyGb5dZvw4cZQ/s1600/IMG_0661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtUsEGrk85ojvD7jxKn0VyCmtNfdTr3cVdjmtXcbKrUeAOKzKko8nimiZgCsHeiN-X94sfsqlIxxpPnI5onkz6kIPRN2t4WukSHqG_2rEZDqz_aZN1DQ-vjLwjqUk7aNoyGb5dZvw4cZQ/s320/IMG_0661.JPG" width="240" /></a></i></div>
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<i><o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also to be patterned were the sequin layout and the velvet
motifs. The sequins I did by again
fiercely eyeballing all pictures of the skirt and trying to figure out how the
sequins went on <i>under</i> the velvet
applique, then drawing the squigglies in pencil on the overskirt pattern until
it looked right. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The velvet was much the same way. I had already drawn up a pattern for my fiance M’s
wedding suit, but it needed to be slimmed, lengthened, widened, etc. so I
mostly freehanded it again. Only half,
though, and used the mystical power of mirroring to trace the other side. The originals show much interweaving of the
pattern, so each motif ended up being 5 pieces. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4LZAoe6EofMaUfNabpVj-IQIsnZpe42QfhzLDiyCvS5DUGp8McUbxKdr0pKtfDLlty4maCAi8RXJc2vUgr91drP8XaSuaVkxq0eDaAJTiIFNJOvXp6LcP5LCed8JIm48ZAXUIJHyEnjE/s1600/IMG_1555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4LZAoe6EofMaUfNabpVj-IQIsnZpe42QfhzLDiyCvS5DUGp8McUbxKdr0pKtfDLlty4maCAi8RXJc2vUgr91drP8XaSuaVkxq0eDaAJTiIFNJOvXp6LcP5LCed8JIm48ZAXUIJHyEnjE/s320/IMG_1555.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old motif on left, new motif on right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bodice applique was patterned thusly; I traced off the
overbodice, and then glared at pictures that I analyzed in, what else, Paint,
to show proportions and things and what goes over and under what and what those
bits look like underneath those other bits, and drew it all out as it would
appear on the final bodice. I then
traced each of those bits to make its own pattern. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijT70JslgwrYJGFdCnsqgNwxfqueAXyGTUcB8-ZTfSWK9BGMMZkY5HQEY8iEmDTo4cuTsMEIJp4b2pG0Gq_8Qt8eqgBQzPgLta3yvlngx62MgYIvmbZfiUqzKRjjoQ-mKOYpZGH_AQTCw/s1600/IMG_0876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijT70JslgwrYJGFdCnsqgNwxfqueAXyGTUcB8-ZTfSWK9BGMMZkY5HQEY8iEmDTo4cuTsMEIJp4b2pG0Gq_8Qt8eqgBQzPgLta3yvlngx62MgYIvmbZfiUqzKRjjoQ-mKOYpZGH_AQTCw/s320/IMG_0876.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Analysis of original bodice showing anatomical underlay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQRbACjanjCr2DvhsC8YWZ7ddAa2wuzZiVtwr2Z9HP3ki1pzP1T4_Q-UDfAxV-5nL5CF5ti8vH_Rdmc5xaIw7I_VTApuaRa144nMfJIa8o6j8025UuOXPg6DYZti_HoB3tKvd_JVWQy0/s1600/IMG_1557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQRbACjanjCr2DvhsC8YWZ7ddAa2wuzZiVtwr2Z9HP3ki1pzP1T4_Q-UDfAxV-5nL5CF5ti8vH_Rdmc5xaIw7I_VTApuaRa144nMfJIa8o6j8025UuOXPg6DYZti_HoB3tKvd_JVWQy0/s320/IMG_1557.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the pieces for bodice front and back. Cut 2.</td></tr>
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The pieces on the right are my own interpretation of the left; I would do a few things differently regarding proportion 'next time', but would be much more interested in someone else's interpretation of this delicate jumble. I even looked for the original drawing of the overbodice pattern and couldn't find it. Did I throw it away? It seems unspeakable, but at the time I was quite pressed and took a certain glee in 'breaking the mold', since I was NOT expecting to do this again. Of course I now regret it, because it was a beautiful thing in itself, and I can't show it to you. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCLdMHbLaC8sv8YCyvLTnskEz_4ccP32QD2vvTWk5Q6H3IXodypHnfLq2_EfvVJLhFS8IiZbFEXu0zi0OFMqrl9V3xxeDcxt9v8lH21CzJ0la326F6h3GL2jWZmc1qZzH9-SqyshUrqA/s1600/20640784946_d16892161c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCLdMHbLaC8sv8YCyvLTnskEz_4ccP32QD2vvTWk5Q6H3IXodypHnfLq2_EfvVJLhFS8IiZbFEXu0zi0OFMqrl9V3xxeDcxt9v8lH21CzJ0la326F6h3GL2jWZmc1qZzH9-SqyshUrqA/s320/20640784946_d16892161c_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underskirt pattern. This ends up being split in the the fabric by a vertical seam on the left, parallel to the front seam.</td></tr>
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</div>
Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5972002304053485344.post-76898314211851245022015-11-02T10:01:00.002-08:002015-11-02T10:01:37.858-08:00A Wedding Dress for a Pond Princess<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJufH_3bF5z9sMF2jzxp462XeK3JIrwcb9fZ2WyxsWlvMTyIuxRoTU6_vLoCVuMxqesBN3Hj1SLw6PW9B9ONyhEDbrde_J7oZubSPWUae3dJEYpZ6dLqBtdfwrXRmfHx2pvhct8sNR3LE/s1600/IMG_0554+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJufH_3bF5z9sMF2jzxp462XeK3JIrwcb9fZ2WyxsWlvMTyIuxRoTU6_vLoCVuMxqesBN3Hj1SLw6PW9B9ONyhEDbrde_J7oZubSPWUae3dJEYpZ6dLqBtdfwrXRmfHx2pvhct8sNR3LE/s320/IMG_0554+%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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For my wedding dress, I decided that the only gown for me
was the green 1900 gown by Worth, currently at the Kyoto Costume Institute in
Japan. It was the most consistently
breathtaking gown I had ever seen, and I knew it because it jolted me every
time it came up in dress tumblrs. At the
time, there was only one picture of the gown available on the whole wide
internet, and the same one was reproduced in the KCI archive book (though that
dress has earned a couple of extra photos in the new edition). <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6QIsVgwN0SrLNl5A4wy95MycWJzI1noq8CRcSw9OvjVk6AdQacAsKzOum58bsK2Ccruv65Ib1qJu_mqk3RNb6NWfmx53f2JXlTQpMQpKrMnpOotyoVMaF8vbyK7n8dRdUxE_gNdWPMI/s1600/1900+worth+kyoto2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6QIsVgwN0SrLNl5A4wy95MycWJzI1noq8CRcSw9OvjVk6AdQacAsKzOum58bsK2Ccruv65Ib1qJu_mqk3RNb6NWfmx53f2JXlTQpMQpKrMnpOotyoVMaF8vbyK7n8dRdUxE_gNdWPMI/s1600/1900+worth+kyoto2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/detail_106_e.html">1900 Worth gown at KCI</a></div>
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I made my decision and started the planning process in March
of 2014, preceding my wedding in July of 2015.
I knew that this was not going to be a faithful reproduction since I
could not examine the gown in person, and I was okay with that; the most
important thing for me was capturing the essence of the design, the heavy
embellishment, the WOW factor. This I
felt was in my grasp, but I reeeeely needed more pictures. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Enter my good friend C; costume maven and Japanophile, who
was making a trip to Kyoto the summer before my wedding, and though she made an
appointment to see the gown, the KCI was closed! Never daunted, she managed to sweet-talk them
into sending her a file of archival detail photographs.</div>
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With those, and with Cathy Hay’s marvelous documentation of
another Worth gown, the famous <a href="http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/427971.html">Oak Leaf Dress</a>, I had a good idea of how the
pattern needed to work, and more importantly, how the bodice needed to close to
accommodate the heavily embellished front and back. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyI841P3GjSDVzPxrN5oG3P36yXh96jskfB_kwc3o8TIAEX7Vhkcrxh_EgiiE42Nd-DLlcTCGcTmPCt_hr8cw-AMfafGCSlHVvk9enYbyRcXJGGnscRrDl1cQn6PZzfripCvRd-AkeCs/s1600/IMG_0683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyI841P3GjSDVzPxrN5oG3P36yXh96jskfB_kwc3o8TIAEX7Vhkcrxh_EgiiE42Nd-DLlcTCGcTmPCt_hr8cw-AMfafGCSlHVvk9enYbyRcXJGGnscRrDl1cQn6PZzfripCvRd-AkeCs/s200/IMG_0683.JPG" width="150" /></a>Then, of course, the question was fabric. One of the most important aspects of the gown
was the color. It had to be green. Or blue.
Or greeny-blue. The ombre effect
and swampy delicacy had to do with the fact that the gown is many different
kinds of fabrics, each originally dyed differently but complementarily to build
a cohesive palette. I would need to work
with a solid silk, a chiffon, a velvet.
And I would need to dye them myself.
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I will spare you the agony of the months that I learned to
batch dye for the first time, the endless swatches, and the terror that the
green would be too minty, too oversaturated, too ‘80s, too unfashionable, too
bright, etc. Everything could go
wrong. Not quite everything did. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The dyes and the fabric came from Dharma Trading. I used Procyon dyes in Celadon and Seafoam,
and Ecru for the chiffon. I originally ordered 8 yards of silk twill, 8 yards
of 10mm silk chiffon, and 5 yards of silk velvet. I only had to re-order the twill and the
velvet (ouch) and only had to redye the chiffon about 4 times to get the
perfect not-quite-white that would overlay the seafoam skirt. The velvet dyed so badly the first time that
I called Dharma to get advice. Did you
know you could do that? Do it! They are very nice and helpful. My main mistake was not using enough salt
because I wanted a delicate color and thought that salt would make it too
saturated for me. My main lesson learned
was to follow the rules before you break them.
The dyemaster calculated the exact amount of dye I needed; I discovered
I had been using way too much dye since the salt was not holding it in. The next attempt went much better, and
finally I was satisfied. (I really did
spare you most of the agony). <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2GeacOVx8AdJ7OZjz95SL1UQ8OhmbJwX3TwGH7zuVSBO7mH2s28TG76el4TkHPpvNvLWktbHdTdCmZWIosEz0hyuRVUdKThTU0eJFJwusAG-0ITSm4tt20JVErxWBbqo4SGJhsgXRCc/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-2GeacOVx8AdJ7OZjz95SL1UQ8OhmbJwX3TwGH7zuVSBO7mH2s28TG76el4TkHPpvNvLWktbHdTdCmZWIosEz0hyuRVUdKThTU0eJFJwusAG-0ITSm4tt20JVErxWBbqo4SGJhsgXRCc/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C rocking the dye bath</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dixefqShASoYulXy3p0pcN2cAFD9F7lhGZ69TeOjjQKsK8npgIJ2jgaphGWgk3Vm_xOmFcjrC3CS4cjvWD6G3GFLKCTEmHMvodor1EZK4myHQYtU4GLnS6YtT6iKzHjWb9Si-FGJUVU/s1600/IMG_0420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3dixefqShASoYulXy3p0pcN2cAFD9F7lhGZ69TeOjjQKsK8npgIJ2jgaphGWgk3Vm_xOmFcjrC3CS4cjvWD6G3GFLKCTEmHMvodor1EZK4myHQYtU4GLnS6YtT6iKzHjWb9Si-FGJUVU/s320/IMG_0420.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghe6yxDxj_LImcBey0CFHBubRHRu-8taltXSPYgnsp5Zlq8mV9sv7sHkX_puzT9aWNDzugasujcFORgmcilyk4cOiifYQ5pQGZaXM-rHlT1jYcdOruzcBSuObILE-8lmhCvz-SCGHXrqw/s1600/IMG_0686.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghe6yxDxj_LImcBey0CFHBubRHRu-8taltXSPYgnsp5Zlq8mV9sv7sHkX_puzT9aWNDzugasujcFORgmcilyk4cOiifYQ5pQGZaXM-rHlT1jYcdOruzcBSuObILE-8lmhCvz-SCGHXrqw/s320/IMG_0686.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Kaitlinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05957294479805474304noreply@blogger.com0